I agree. I think this guy sounds like he's at least embellishing on the problem to make it sound worse so he can get your hard earned money. Did he say when he saw the oil in the antifreeze? It would sit at the top of the radiator if it were there, you could take the cap off and look for yourself. If he was changing the coolant and saw oil in the bucket after draining it could just be that it dripped in there from a leak or something. If antifreeze is in the oil then when you have the oil changed, it will be the first thing out of the pan because water is heavier than oil. The oil could also appear milky if the combination was still agitated. I can't wait for you to get the opinion from your regular mechanic ( the one who already earned your trust ). Good luck Ruby. I would at least take the cap off the radiator and look inside. If you do see oil then you know he wasn't being completely dishonest.
This is rapidly becoming a "fix Ruby's Car" thread but at the risk of further diversion I will add.
It is very common for this engine to show oil in the coolant due to a head gasket that is failing. The head gasket seals three areas of the engine where the head joins the block. Naturally it seals the combustion chamber, keeping the hot, high pressure gases in the cylinder. Next it seals the coolant passages that transfer coolant from block to head. Lastly it seals the oil passages that transfer oil from the block oil passages to the head where it lubes the valve train. Since oil is at higher pressure than the cooling system which tops out around 16 lbs on average, it is not all that uncommon for oil to pass through a gasket that has small leakage, into the cooling system. When the engine is shut down small amounts of coolant pass back into the oil passages. Oil only turns milky when HUGE amounts of coolant contaminate it and in many engines the oil runs hot enough to evaporate it almost as fast as it leaks into it. Signs will be that the Coolant overflow bottle, which is supposed to have about a quart or so in it when cold will empty itself about once a week or so. There will be no visible puddles anywhere as it is going into the oil and then evaporating when the oil heats to just under 200 degrees.
When this condition is left un-repaired long enough then the gasket fails to the point where combustion gases pass into the cooling system, often blowing all the water out of the radiator. That is the beginning of the end and serious damage to the heads (warping), block (warping, cracking, or just grooves burned in), and bearings.
On the rotors you have to have turned again, chances are that the calipers need replacement now as well. As they get old, especially if over 100K miles or more, they don't release fully and the brakes drag slightly. This causes the rotors to wear and "warp".
Just a tip, if your doing the work yourself on the brakes or having a friend do it, New rotors for your car are only $27 each at O'Reilly Auto Parts. Turning them would cost $17 or so at the same store. For $10 more you get a new rotor. On the calipers you can get unloaded (no pads or hardware) calipers for about $35 ea. and fully loaded (new pads, new hardware) for about $75.
Brake jobs on that car are not all that hard and can be done for a lot less than even those "Discount" jobs.
Now back to your original post, have you ever considered a "fanny pack"? Lots of those are water resistant and you might even be able to carry your sidearm at all times on the job. I've used one from time to time and just move it from front to side or front to back as necessary. Might be an option.