Did a boat tour of capri, stopping to swim in various cool places like the blue, green, white grottos. Some some amazing yachts, one with a helicopter on it. Felt like I was in a rapper's MTV music video. Went to Positano and had a $100 dinner. Ate next to some high rollers in the restaurant, saw some seriously silly rich people, Saudi oil/royalty there with men who were carrying concealed.
For the money my aunt paid it is amazing. The accommodations are EMACULATE. A five star place here is MUCH nicer than five star places I've been to in the US.
Overall, I believe the culture here is freer, but the tyranny of the state is in some ways worse than in the US. The disconnect between the people and the statist ruling class may be bigger than in the US. You can buy fireworks that would be illegal in the US. You can drive in a way most nanny staters in the US would consider "reckless driving" (traffic laws exist here but seem to be generally unenforced and disregarded with impunity), and the food ingredients are much better and fresher than in the US across ALL price points. These are the only things I can say with confidence I like better than in the US.
Good break from the police state. In Rome saw a small number of police cars, "Polizia Roma Capitale", little hatchbacks. Outside Rome and other major cities: ZERO.
Oh, and Italian customs... a smile and a nod without looking at my passport. We'll see if I get detained on July 4th. United is saying 1 hour delays in US customs for "enhanced security" reasons. At least the Italians don't have such a hypocritical holiday celebrating faux freedom.